There were many people at the waiting area and I
saw tears streaming down on many faces when they met the beloved once. We send
and receive family members and friends with tears, affectionate love and hugs. Although
we left home for various reasons, we always have been attached to our beloved
country and follow what is going on. We are not discouraged to love our country
because of the calamities caused by brutal dictators but proud of our heritage including
our famous people St. Yared, Emperor Amde-Tsion, Emperor Theodorous II, Emperor
Menelik II, Abune Peteros, Ras Abebe Aregay, Prime minster Aklilu Habete Wolde,
Kebede Michael, LaureateTsegaye G/Medhin, Abebe Bekila etc.
I went back to Ethiopia first time in 2001. As for
the country, my impression was everything and nothing has changed since I left
home. Then after a couple of weeks into my vacation, there was student riots
and I was perturbed and gutted by what I saw. I returned to Europe and did not
go back until last year. However, this time a decade later Addis Ababa has
changed and still growing bigger by the day. There are a number of newly established
areas, roads and the city is over-crowded with the natives and foreigners. I was
told that most of the changes came about after the 2005 election crisis. During
my short vacation, I have learnt a lot about the political situation, the cost
of living, the changes Addis Ababa going through. Upon my return last May, I
wrote my observations and shared it with my family, relatives and friends. The
feedback was positive and I was encouraged and advised to publish it online.
Since I wrote this short article, some interesting developments are taking
place in Ethiopia mainly the absence of the prime minster from the political
arena and the explanation given at press conferences with regard to his
whereabouts are ridiculously implausible and puzzling, although various sources
indicating that he is dead. Initially, I was planning to wait until I find out
the prime minister’s fate; then modify the article accordingly and
publish it but I thought my article might stray away from my original intention.
Therefore, I decide to publish the original article which is a simple
observation rather than a critical analysis of the political situation in
Ethiopia.
Addis Ababa and its residents
The Ethiopian capital city Addis
Ababa which was founded during Emperor Menelik’s reign has transformed
into a major city in the past decades. It has grown steadily in terms of
buildings, roads and also the size of its inhabitants. Currently, there are
lots of building and road constructions everywhere and
part of the plan is gradually to replace all the wattle and daub houses by
concrete/story buildings at least in the city centre but public parks and
children play grounds are very minimal or non-existent in the city. Once the current constructions are completed, Addis
Ababa will be a very beautiful city. The fate of those
people who are losing their properties or lands due to demolishment is unknown
whether they will get a replacement or compensation according to the market
value. Many have some rather contentious views on this issue. This plan or
policy might leave many people destitute. Some have been offered to move into
newly built condominiums. However, these new buildings range between three to
seven floors with no elevator which is very daunting task for old and disabled people.
Some of these buildings are already showing signs of deterioration in less than
a year of completion.
There are a lot of newly built roads across the
city and some of these are shoddily done and already showing deterioration and potholes.
It seems there is no proper coordinated plan between the municipality and other
companies such as the Ethio-Telecom and Water Services as some of these new
asphalt roads have already been dug within the completion of few weeks/months. When
these roads are dug, there is no any kind of barrier or sign which says
road-work in progress or indicating there is a hole; as a result many people
and even cars fall into these holes specially in darkness. What surprising more
is after completing a particular task; the workers just put back the soil into
the hole and leave without properly repairing the surface of the road which
makes the road muddy when it rains. Some even have left a pile of soils and rocks
on the pavements which have been there for months. Basically it shows there is
no sense of responsibility, accountability and proper maintenance whatsoever!
The number of foreigners and Ethiopians from
abroad make Addis Ababa an exciting polyglot city. The city is full of myriads
of bars and hotels in every corner and some of the hotels are really opulent.
The ubiquity various small business of Khaldis coffee shops and other outlets are
everywhere in the city. People are usually sitting at coffee shops or by the
side of the road and some of them are gazing pensively at no specific things
and lost in thoughts. The main streets and squares are full of people who
travel around and peddling their wares. There are a lot of beggars everywhere;
some of whom squat around churches and on the side of streets in plastic shacks.
Some of these plastic shacks were originally made as a bivouac by the people
who were forced to leave war zone areas (from north of the country) almost two
decades ago which is now turned into a permanent accommodation.
Our people are naturally very
courteous and cultured. Even the street urchins are very respectful to the
elders except the odd brats and some young people also
show ignoble actions. Most people use a double entendre expression or mordent
wit when they talk about politics. People actually don’t say much about
politics neither in public places nor in private due to the number of security
forces personnel around and of course the draconian measure usually taken by them.
Therefore, most people usually say “belefelefu yitefu” which the
English say “he was burnt by the very fire he started” and keep
quite. Despite the unpleasant experience in the country, there is nothing in
the people’s demeanour that suggested they are anxious but rather look
bonhomie. However, I am sure their smiley faces belied their outward misery and
suffering.
This year a few honoured people like Mamo Wedeneh,
Sebehat Gebre Egziabher and Afework Tekle have passed away. Actually Afework
Tekle passed away while I was in Addis and watched the burial service on TV. He
was buried at the Holy Trinity cathedral, as befits someone of his position.
These famous people have left a legacy of literature and art behind and their work
is enlightening many of us and the generation to come.
On the other hand the city is full of
dilapidated old cars. Taking a taxi was the most frightful experience as I was
not too sure if the breaks work in steep downhill roads. The number of traffic
lights working in the city dwindled to the lowest level. No idea why they are
not working or where they have disappeared. Pollution is beyond belief! The smokes of the cars, dusts and all kinds of
things in the air give you discomfort when you breath. The
dirtiness of the city would make an aesthete person shudder. Some of the side
streets have putrid smell which makes you queasy. The frequency of power outage
was less compare to my previous visit but still a major problem.
There are a number of new squares and
roundabouts named after some foreigners such as Pushkin, Bob merely, etc. The
actual statues have not been erected yet but only the plinth. The most heart
breaking thing is that we have our own numerous heroes who did a great deal for
our beloved country and those are the one who deserve a spot for their
contribution. What has Pushkin done for Ethiopia? The current generation is just
looking abroad for a model or guide in every aspect of life and worship anything
foreign. Even most shops, bars and restaurants including those tacky once do
have foreign names too. Some written in English and some English origin names but
written in Amharic alphabets which are very disappointing. This foreign
addiction is not limited to the above but people are more interested in English
football league than their own. I understand that there is no a descent team in
the country but why on earth they fight when one of the English team they
support loses? The radio and the newspapers are constantly blathering about
English football. This makes me wonder whether our people have any more pride
in our own heritage. Whom shall we blame for such dregs of conscience? Of course the government!
Most of the population have a great desire to
get out of the country including young elementary school children. There are numerous
girls who are preying on visitors from abroad to try their luck. These beautiful
girls are everywhere including in big hotel’s lounge pretending they are
waiting for someone or they having a good time with their friends. Of course
there are also some who seem to be on the take. They look all sugar and spice
when they see a potential predator is around so it easier for him to start
chatting them up. Some of these visitors might have ordinary job or a job that
is as the low man on the totem pole but brag they have a very important post or
pretend they are well off in order to attract these young girls. These
heartless scoundrels flaunt their money and abuse lots of young girls; and that
really takes the biscuit! They can be found everywhere including coffee shops
or clubs at anytime of the day to take advantage of these vulnerable girls’
desperate situation. Some of them are often in their inebriated state and
behave like juvenile delinquents which make them a total embarrassment. Their
salacious jokes and comments make them nasty twerps.
The Cost of living
The current cost of living is very high and wondered
how the majority of the ordinary people manage to live with their low income.
If one says it is due to the value of the ETH birr, it might be ok for imported
consumer goods. However, there is no justification of high prices for domestic
products. For instance at Easter the price of meat such as chicken and lamb were
an eye opener experience… prices almost coming closer to what one pays in
the west. The cost of drinks and meals in those plush bars and restaurants are very
expensive. This might be to get rid of the riff-raff far away! However, most of
the ordinary people are begrudged paying so much for most of the basic items
since they lack the financial wherewithal.
People in other countries (mainly in Europe/US since I know these countries) can afford to
buy basic or luxury stuffs they need since their earnings are relatively
related to the cost of living in the country they live in whereas in Ethiopia people
with basic salary cannot afford to buy basic day to day necessities let alone
luxury goods.It seems the
government pays scant attention to the needs of its citizens mainly the poor.
The hardship imposed on the people, the mistreatment of its citizen and the high
cost of living will be the coup de grâce to the downfall of this rouge
regime. Unfortunately, uprising is the inevitable corollary of such hardship
imposed on society.
The growing disparity between rich and poor is
beyond imagination. Some of the people who have lots of business brought them
wealth beyond the dreams of avarice. The majority of people have a frugal
lifestyle and they criticized the ostentatious lifestyle of their leaders and
those who are associated with them.
The Government
In the western culture leaders
usually elected every few years depends on the country’s constitution.
However, in the Africa continent most are usually replaced by force except a very
few governments. In Ethiopia, the thousand years ancestral monarchy was
overthrown by the military Derge which
was also in turn removed by the Tigre People Liberation Front (TPLF) or known
as the woyanes. The woyanes are so different from the
previous leaders and taking this country back to the previous century. When
Emperor Theodorous II ascended to the throne, one of his main aims was to end
the era of the princes and re-unified Ethiopia. He was constantly on the
mission to the neighbouring provinces to accomplish his dream. He committed
suicide on the fortress of Meqedela on 14th April 1868 but paved the
way for reunification. The subsequent leaders let the torch of unity go on and
his vision was eventually materialised. This year, it is 144 years since
Emperor Theodorous died and unlike his vision and earlier leaders, the woyane has facilitated the way to
disintegrate the country. It is my fervent hope that it won’t happen as this
is not the desire of the Ethiopian people.
The leadership has been accused of being
involved in venal practices. Rampant corruption is in its highest level in the
country’s history. Some of the crass remarks made by government officials
are disturbing and make you wonder whether these people have the slightest idea
about our culture or administration. People accuse the government of riding
roughshod over the country’s law. Most people complain about courts being
corrupted and miscarriages of justice. The woyanes
have been involved in nefarious activities which have been reprobated. People continuously
being arrested, put in jail and there is a paucity of information on the where about
of them or nobody knows when they will appear in court. Actually detention
without trial, disappearance, torture and murder are common practice in
Ethiopia during the previous regime and now. The prisons condition are said to
be appalling and the guards’ cruelty beggared belief. Such actions are a great act of malevolence! If the
current leadership possess the fear of God and respect our culture, it
wouldn’t have been making incendiary remarks and inflicting odious crimes
against its own people. Perhaps Emperor Haile Selassie’s speech in 1948
describes the current government precisely: “Where there is no faith in
a civilization but only power, that civilization is surrounded with doubt and
fear and its power expresses itself in brutality”.
Because of security everybody is frisked at the
entrance of any building when entering. Some of the guards do not have any
manner whatsoever and tell you peremptory instructions what you need to do and
this behaviour must be inherited from our culture a propensity to show power. This is not
limited to the guards but employees in other
governmental offices including at the airport security and immigration desk too. Questioning or arguing with them
can jeopardize your safety. In the past there were many scrupulous politicians
well known for altruism who stand for the rights of the citizens and they
ensured that government money was spent properly; however, in these days people in charge of certain offices will do
anything in order to accumulate wealth. What I noticed also, like so many politicians or others in power, most ordinary people also have
insatiable desire for power so that they can benefit from the system too. When are we going to find a veracious and conscientious leader who put first the
country and the well being of the people? The definition of power in Ethiopia
is an opportunity to embezzle and expropriate public fund; to receive bribes
and abuse helpless people whereas in the West is to serve the people. People
justify such atrocious behaviour by quoting our adage “sishom yalbela sishar yikochewal” which could be
rendered in English as “he who did
not benefit when promoted, would regret when demoted.”It
seems nepotism and malfeasances are a well accepted practice in the country. It
clearly shows that there is a vast leadership chasm between Ethiopia and the
Western culture.
Road blockage is not unusual for the residents
of Addis Ababa whenever the prime minster is ventured out of his den which can
last hours. Just a few hours before he is passing by, pandemonium reigned on
the road thanks to the federal police. The police usually jostling and shoving
the pedestrian to go to the side streets or into buildings and any cars parked
on the streets are checked. Why one lives in such fear? I pray to see that day whereby
a leader is elected by the people who does not scared to go out and mingle with
his/her subjects and not constantly guarded by the army/special forces and live
in fear. I
will be very happy to die after I witness my wish like Simeon who said “Lord, now lettest thou thy servant
depart in peace, according to thy word: For mine eyes have seen thy
salvation….. (Luke 2:29).”
The government has proscribed any websites or
newspaper that criticizes the leadership and as a result many websites have
been blocked and could not be accessed in Ethiopia. However, the media in
Ethiopia constantly excoriates the leadership and the people in the higher authority
in a sarcastic way and sometime directly. Some taking risks on what they do and
these individuals should be admired and acknowledged for their courage.
Religion
Religion is something that is taken seriously by the people and most Ethiopians are
very religious people in their respected denomination. A large number of people
flock into the churches every day. Most of the churches in Europe have been
closed due to lack of attendants whereas in Ethiopia lots of new churches and
mosques are being built. The number of people at a special procession or feast
day is in thousands. In the evenings most churches are open for evening prayers
and sermons and a lot of people attend this on daily basis. I hardly heard any
modern music on the streets or taxis but only spiritual songs until Teddy Afro’s
new CD “Tikur Sew” came out. I am really surprised to see the growing
religious tendency in our country and wondering what has triggered this. Is it because
the people utterly despondent about their life and do not see a brighter future
and seek God’s intervention to free them from their misery?
The current generation of the Orthodox followers
are very conservative and traditionalist thanks to Mahebere Kidusan. These young people undermine the church fathers/leaders
and challenging not only the leadership but they think they know better than
them which is a bit of a concern. Some time it is hard to blame them totally
when one see the statue of the patriarch and his picture hanging in the
compound of most churches. In the old good days or ancient time most church
fathers were being abstemious; however, these days the clergies’ life
style and the conduct of their duties are not according to the scriptures/The Law
of Kings (Fitha Negest). Because of
their life style and not looking after their flocks, some of these
sanctimonious clergies have lost respect from the ordinary people. This is a
usual trend seen from the top to lower hierarchy. While the head of the church has
a lavish life style, there are numerous churches being closed; lots of clergies
do not have a proper salary to support their families and many Christians
murdered by some fanatic Muslim elements.
Beside the Ethiopian Orthodox Church, the
different denominations such as Pentecostal and Protestants are also working
hard to convert many to their groups and their numbers are increasing. There
are a number of new worship halls in the city. I see also a large number of
mosques sprang in strategic areas of the city. I see more men with long beard
and women covered from top to toe. So in general religious radicalism is in the
rise. There have been a number of incidents whereby Christians have been
murdered by some fanatic Muslims while attending church services in Jimma and in other parts of the country;
however, it seems the government condones such atrocities which indirectly
encourage these thugs to continue their barbaric act. After learning more about the
relationship between Muslims and Christians, I have a sudden premonition of
what the future might bring. Unless the various faith groups work together to
encourage society to live side by side peacefully, it will have a serious repercussion. The religious tension in
some part of the country makes it a tinderbox ready to ignite.
Conclusion
The country I love so much
“Ethiopia” has progressed in the past decades in terms of
infrastructure and developments. Despite the inimical policies and cumbersome bureaucracy, hundreds of new small businesses have spawned
across the country. The government could have achieved more but the investment
procedures and application’s process are a serious impediment to attract
investors. There are still a lot of hurdles to be surmounted before an
effective procedure is in place.
Ethiopia is well known for its human right
violation and currently ranked top of the list. I am hoping all the injustice, fiendish
act of wickedness and the very mediocre ethnic mentality will perish from our
land and all people live respecting each other and see the bigger picture of
greater Ethiopia than their villages and ethnicity. I pray the current myopic
government which use the obsolete ethnic banner shall come to its sense and
change its policy so that people are assigned to various posts based on their
qualifications rather than ethnic background or political affiliation. The
damage has already been done and it will take many more years to uproot the ethnicity
poison and restore Ethiopianism. Our resplendent monarchs and patriots have fought
and repelled all the invaders/colonizers for “one glorious Ethiopia” and scarified their precious
lives. They paid a high price so that the generations to come live in peace and
be proud of their heritage.
The Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church which is
known as the unifying factor has also played a significant role for the
independence of our country and integrity of the various ethnic groups. The
church also intervened in the past when leaders abuse their power and her citizens’
rights were violated. However, the past four decades her role and power has
diminished and she gives a blind-eye to the abuse caused by the leaders. Beside
her previous political involvement, the church was the mainstay of the literature
and music culture for our country. This ancient church has been a target of
invaders and colonialists including fanatic Muslim elements. The orthodox
Christians and other religious groups have lived in relatively perfect amity
for many centuries; however, I’ve gnawing doubts about religious hatred and
conflict in the provinces. I am hoping the tension will wane and people will
continue to live together in peace and harmony as it has been for centuries.
Our past and recent history show that my fellow
people are very humble, hard working, kind, respectful and these pious people
deserve better. These people are very forgiving and benevolent. For instance, during
the Second World war, they pardoned the Italian POWs who murdered them and did
all kinds of inhumanities after Emperor Haile Selassie delivered a speech (which
is known as “the golden speech”) the day he entered Addis Ababa. Secondly,
when the bandits (woyane) approached
Addis Ababa, Dergue was not in
control of the cities. At that time people did not go after those who committed
the most gruesome crime during Red terror, though they were living next door. The
current leadership has been ruling the country with iron fist, made offensive
remarks and undermines its citizens. However; the people are not put out by
these temerity but they are ready to say to the regime let bygones be bygones
for the damage you have done so far and build our country together. The
government should use this opportunity otherwise its obstinate refusal to
compromise will bring the same fate as Kaddafi and Mubarak.
Despite all the unpleasant things happening in
our country, one can have the best time in Ethiopia if he/she can ignore the
suffering of the people and the whole situation. The people seen in day time
and evenings are different classes. In the evening Addis looks completely
another city, the type of people in clubs or restaurants are different in many
ways. It is heart breaking to see the number of girls lined up in the streets
of Addis once it is dark. I am sure these girls are not just prostitutes but
the challenge of life must have forced them out to make a living. The high number
of girls going to the Arab countries to work is incredible. Is the government
follow up their well being in the country they live in and work? I don’t think
so from what we have seen and heard the incident in Lebanon this year. Many of
our people who live in the Arab countries have been saying a poignant account
of so much tragedy they are experiencing on daily basis. The political
situation and economic burden have forced our people to suffer in all aspects
of life. One might say it is their choice but it is a matter of survival
otherwise if things were promising or fair in our country, they do not go
through such hardship.
In general, my short stay in Addis Ababa was
absolutely fantastic. I am very glad that I went there and spent a few weeks with my family and
I have no words to express my heartfelt delight except saying simply the best! However, when I think about my country, my moods vacillate between hope
and despair and start wondering where is the God of Ethiopia to wipe the tears
of His people and assuage our griefs? We Ethiopians regularly pray and attend
church services unlike the rich western society but our suffering is endless. What
have we done to be punished for so long? When is it going to end?
I hope the God of our forefathers will look
after our country with His love, kindness, boundless blessings and forgive
whatever sins we committed wittingly or unwittingly so we prosper, live in
peace and happiness. I hope the day will come and most of our people will have
three meals a day, live without fear and build our nation so that the next
generation will inherit a justice, rich and powerful Ethiopia. May our Lord
keep the integrity of Ethiopia and embarrass those who are waiting to see the
interment of our country.
